BARK:
SILENCING THE DOG
THAT
BARKS WHEN LEFT ALONE
Of all dog
behavior problems, perhaps the most distressing one is the dog who barks when
left alone. Incessant volleys of yips, woofs and
whines just don't make it for those who live in close quarters or for those who
need some peace and quiet in their life! These latchkey barkers fit several
profiles. It is important to determine which one or more describes your dog;
misreading the dog may result in failure.
1. THE GENETICALLY PRONE BARKER
Virtually
all terriers, and many small dogs, particularly Lhasa Apsas, Poodles and Schnauzers fit into this category.
These breed types have been pre‑programmed; they bark
at movement or noise within their “range”. Sensitive alarm barkers once bred to
alert the farmer of the fox in the hen house, now announce that the phone is ringing,
the neighbors are home or that the elevator has arrived. They must be trained
to limit their barking. Training them to bark on command gives you control; you
can turn it "on" or "off" on your orders! It's not that you
don't want them to bark; you just want them to be appropriate. Find a suitable
place or time where the yappy dog can bark to his heart's
content.
2. THE
ALPHA-TERRITORIAL BARKER
These barkers
are most often unneutered males and/or guarding breed
types. They believe that they are protecting their yard, house and general
"air‑space" from intruders such as the mailman, a squirrel, a
passing dog or a neighbor. Neutering may take the overprotective
and/or territorial edge off the intact dog. Training will get the genetically
protective dog’s instincts in line. Blocking the dog's view of the property
lines (stockade instead of chain‑link fencing) and keeping him from
patrolling the area around the front door or front porch may assist in cutting
down the owner‑absent barking. Monitor this type of dog carefully; do not
permit him to bark at passersby when you are home. If you cannot silence him
when you are there, you can't expect much when you're not.
3. THE
BORED UNDEREXERCISED DOG
Sporting,
hound and herding breed types were bred to work all day long. Many retrievers,
pointers, setters, collies and the like find themselves
sadly under‑exercised, especially in the urban
environment. These dogs need to be kept busy, if not, boredom turns into
barking (not to mention chewing, pacing and digging). Most need at least 2
(TWO) hours of vigorous, aerobic exercise a day. If you are going to be gone
for an extended period of time (6 + hours), an hour
of mentally challenging and physically active fun and games is mandatory. You
should leave behind a panting, heaving, utterly exhausted dog as you set off
for the day.
Many of
these dogs fall into the category of toy and miniature breed types. Dogs that have
been passed around from home to home and shelter rescues also fit into this
group. Their histories may include coddling and over‑protective handling,
lack of socialization or isolation. Dogs that have never been out of the back
yard or permanently paper trained apartment dwellers are candidates for anxiety
behaviors if placed in a new home environment. These dogs suffer from
separation anxiety when left behind, even for brief periods. Chewing, barking,
house soiling and digging are some typical responses. The majority of these
dogs need to be properly socialized to the world around them. Obedience work
with plenty of praise builds confidence, yielding a more stable dog; a dog
with a better ability to cope.
The
neurotic dog may feel less stressed out when home alone if he's confined to a
kennel crate ‑‑either the enclosed airline type (molded plastic) or
a wire crate draped with a sheet or a tablecloth. With less space to worry
about ‑‑just the bed and a chew toy, many dogs just curl up and
calm down. A word of warning regarding dogs with severe anxiety problems (often
a shelter dog): some dogs may go to pieces in a crate; they will shake,
slobber, struggle and exhibit extreme escape behavior. In these instances you
must seek counsel of a professional dog trainer and/or veterinarian that is
well versed in canine behavior problems and can customize a program for the dog
that may include short term drug therapy.
ENVIRONMENTAL CHANGES TO MINIMIZE OWNER ABSENT
BARKING
1 .
Keep the dog in the quietest part of the house. A dog with behavior problems
has not earned "the run of the house".
2. Keep
curtains and/or shades drawn. If you don't have adequate window coverage, get
some; hang a sheet or blanket across the window. A darker environment has a
calming effect on most dogs. Additionally, there is no visual stimuli to
provoke the territorial or bored dog. Curtains muffle sounds from the outdoor for alarm barkers.
3. Leave a radio or TV on as
"white noise.' In many households, the stereo/TV/radio is
on from morning 'til
night as long as someone is home. Imagine how "loud" the silence is
when everyone is gone and the sound system is turned off! Beyond masking
outside noises, leaving the radio/TV/stereo on gives the aural
appearance of your presence.
4. As you leave, give the dog an "only‑when‑I'm-gone"
chew toy with your scent imparted on it. This toy should be something
spectacular ‑‑a sterilized beef bone stuffed deeply and thoroughly
with canned dog food or cheese spread (served frozen or chilled) or a flavorful
beef‑basted knotted rawhide bone. Give it to the dog upon leaving; rub it
between your palms several times before you go. Not only is this a diversion
tactic, it actually makes being left alone not so bad, as this is the only time
the “most‑wonderful‑thing-in‑the‑world"
appears!
BARKING SET‑UPS
If you have tried all of the above and you are still finding notes
from your neighbors, you must desensitize the dog to your departures with
'barking set‑ups." Set‑ups take time; slow incremental progress
is a necessary part of the program. Be prepared to use a long week‑end or
some vacation time before beginning the program.
First, imitate your daily departure routine. Do you usually put on
make‑up, search about for keys, gloves, etc, pack a gym bag or throw out
the garbage. Make the dog think that this is just like any other daily
departure.
Second, while giving him his special goodbye toy, get eye contact and tell him
in a firm and matter‑of‑fact manner to
be quiet until you return. Please, no longwinded emotional scenes; no begging,
pleading or whining for him to be quiet. It will only serve to emotionally
charge the situation and further stress‑out the dog.
Leave ‑‑for a brief period of time. Just a minute or
two to start out with. If you normally lock the door with keys, make the right
noises, but don't lock it. You must be able to enter quickly if the dog begins
to bark; this is not the time to fumble around with your keys. If you wait for
an elevator, ring for it and get in. Go one floor down and come back up using
the stairs. If the dog has not barked, return and gently praise. If you hear
him begin to bark, burst back into the house hollering QUIET! Then turn and
leave again.
This time, if the dog barks, punctuate your command for silence
with the rattle of a shaker can (empty soda can filled with 15 pennies, fewer
for fearful dogs) to startle the dog into silence. Praise the dog when he
quiets down and leave again.
The goal, of course, is to be able to stay away for longer‑and
longer periods of time without having to go back in and correct the dog for
barking. The time away must be built up in small intervals. Set goals (5,
10, 15 minutes) and go back in and praise the dog if he remained quiet for the
set amount of time. Don't wait for an undetermined amount of time and only go
in to correct the dog for finally barking. Silence must be praised. Appropriate
behavior must be acknowledged.
Most dogs who can remain silent for two hours can usually stay
quiet for an 8 to 10 hours work day. It is building up to that first hour or so
that may take several days of set‑ups to achieve.
For the dog who believes that negative attention from you is
better than no attention at all, you will have to intensify your response. When
you return, do so quietly, do not shout QUIET, but instead toss the shake can
near him (not at him); do it without the dog seeing you take aim. Do not do
this with a fearful dog. The dog gets an "environmental" correction
for barking, not a correction associated with you (verbal). A throw chain aimed
at the dog's rear below the tail can have the same effect, resulting in a
startled silence which you then praise.
Barking set ups can be tedious, but they usually work if you take
the time to do them properly; barking problems
are rarely solved in a day. Let your neighbors know that you are not ignoring
their complaints; that you understand their discomfort and you are taking steps
to correct the problem. Quite often, they will cut you a little slack if they
know that their complaints have not fallen upon deaf ears.
Jacque Schultz Companion Animal
Services
C 1991 ASPCA Education
Department
Tulsa Animal Shelter – 918-669-6299
